Mike and I spent some time on Koh Samui in April 2002 and absolutely fell in love with the island. It is the perfect size - not too big, not too small. The local people were genuinely friendly, the hotel rates were very reasonable, and the shopping was great. After experiencing the wild Full Moon Party on Koh Pha Ngan, Mike and I decided to return to some familiar ground for my final week of relaxation; I would return to the US on the 26th. It felt good to return to a place we already knew.

We took the ferry from Koh Pha Ngan to Koh Samui on January 21, and then hired a taxi to bring us to beautiful Chaweng Beach. We were a little disappointed to find out that the hotels we had stayed in before had all raised their rates. (Perhaps too many tourists have discovered our little island paradise?) We took it in stride, because we were just happy to be back on Samui. Our cabbie suggested the Montien House (since he gets a commission there), and we approved of the atmosphere - nice garden setting, beach, pool, and restaurant. We immediately put on our swim suits and lay in the sun for awhile, then did some shopping.The next day was much the same. We sunbathed, shopped, walked up and down the beach, and worked on the website. We also went to a spa for a massage and foot treatment, although Mike's masseur was a bit rough on him. This resulted in some bruises and torn muscles. So much for that whole "relaxation" aspect of a massage!

We wanted to visit Ang Thong National Marine Park because we didn’t have a chance to do it back in April. This island grouping is the setting for Alex Garland's novel The Beach, although the movie wasn't actually filmed there. We inquired at several tour companies about going alone, without a big annoying tour group. Apparently there are only three companies that take tour groups to the marine park, and the number of participants ranges anywhere from 15 to 50. Not exactly the private getaway we had imagined. We thought we would splurge and hire a private sailboat or speedboat to take us there, but no one wanted the business. How strange, we thought, to let those boats sit in the water all day instead of renting them out to people like us who prefer smaller groups. We finally realized the only way we were going to see the marine park was with a big tour group, so we picked the one with the biggest boat and the least number of people signed up, Island Safari.

Luckily we made the right decision. Our boat was spacious and there were only about twenty people in the group. It was a good mix of people of different ages from Australia, Ireland, Taiwan, Japan, Germany, and Mike and I from the USA. The journey to the marine park took about two hours and sea was perfectly calm. (In fact, there wouldn’t have been enough wind had we hired a sailboat.) When we arrived at the marine park I was immediately struck by its raw beauty. The park consists of many small, rocky islands. Many of the islands have caves and passages, carved out from years of waves crashing against them. The fact that only three tour groups visit the park in a day has preserved much of their natural beauty.

Mu Ko Ang Thong National Park comprises some 40 islands northwest of Koh Samui and covers 250 squares kilometres. The larger islands have towering cliffs encircled by clear seas, include Mae Ko which has a beautiful beach and an emerald saltwater lake called Thale Nai; Wua Talap, site of park headquarters where accommodation is available for visitors; Sam Sao with an exciting coral reef and huge rock arch, and Phai-Luak. (IslandSafari.net)

We moored alongside the other tour groups’ boats and climbed into our inflatable sea kayaks for the short paddle to shore. Once on dry land, we hiked over the rugged terrain to see the Emerald Lake, a green saltwater lake in the middle of one of the islands. We saw some interesting fish in the lake. Afterwards we swam, and then paddled back to the big boat for a delicious Thai lunch. The multi-level layout of our boat allowed everyone to spread out, so it didn’t feel like a large group at all. After lunch we kayaked around some islands, maneuvered under arches and through narrow passages, and stopped in a secluded cove for some snorkeling. We saw plenty of soft corals and fish, although the visibility was a little poor at times. Next, we kayaked back out through the narrow opening and proceeded around various islands. We stopped in some caves and watched swarms of tiny fish beneath our boats.

Mike and I paddled very well together, keeping a straight course and steady speed. The Aussies and Irishmen had a harder time coordinating, though! We all laughed with them as they zigzagged all over the place and bumped into things. They were paddling so hard, yet barely kept up with the rest of the group. We stopped again for some more snorkeling, this time in more open waters. We saw much larger corals and sponge formations this time, but fewer fish. There was a slight current, so Mike and I swam against the current and then let it carry us back towards our kayak. The water was lukewarm - perfect for a hot, sunny day.

Soon it was time to return to Koh Samui for the last part of the tour - elephant trekking at one of the three elephant camps on the island. As is turned out, it was the same one we had been to back in April. First we fed a mother and baby elephant some fruit (they pick up food with their trunk, and it really tickles!). Then we all mounted the elephants and trekked together through the vegetation. At one point our 'driver' dismounted and let me 'drive' for a while. The elephant’s skin was warm and wrinkly, with black wiry hairs on the top of his head. He flapped his ears every so often, wrapping them around my legs. Later our guide picked a blade of palm leaf and wove a ring for each of us to wear.

After our elephant trek we were dropped off at our hotel. Mike and I had a nice, tasty, inexpensive Thai dinner at the Will Wait Restaurant(another favorite of ours), and then worked on the website. The next morning we flew back to Bangkok on a nice jet, instead of the usual turboprop. It's amazing how fast those things get going for takeoff! The flight was very smooth, too.